Back to Yellow and Blue: Readjusting to Life at Regis Post Study Abroad

By Grace Admire, Staff Writer

Studying abroad was the best thing I ever did, even if it ruined my life a bit. Last August, before I embarked on my four-and-a-half-month long stint in Germany, I found myself walking across the quad and thinking to myself, I’ve really made a home here. I think I’m gonna miss this place while I’m gone. And though there were a few moments where I found myself missing Regis (mostly my friends), my memory of that feeling ended up being used as a reminder that there would still be something for me here when I came back. While I was gone, I had worried a lot that things would be different when I came back. In a lot of ways, they were—not because my surroundings and friends were so different, but because I was so different. 

The readjustment process came with a lot of grief. They tell you that when you study abroad, you’ll miss and grieve the people you met there and the deep bonds you form with those around you. I miss the bliss of not knowing what I was missing out on before living in a walkable city with high-quality, cheap food and accessible public transportation. I miss speaking German and feeling proud of myself when people asked me for help in the city I lived in, and I could confidently answer in a foreign language, as if I weren’t American at all. I miss all the little things about Marburg that made it feel like home, an ocean away from everything I ever knew. But no one told me I was going to grieve the way I used to feel about my life back home when I got back. When I returned to life in Colorado, depression hit me like a truck. I got a gnarly stomach bug (E. coli, probably) days upon arriving home and was still recovering from a torn tendon in my ankle that made walking horrendously painful. Even seeing my friends who I love so deeply didn’t make me feel better. And I felt this way for weeks.  

Nearing the end of the semester, things have ebbed and flowed in the level of bearableness for me.  But, as I took a position writing the Highlander, I started thinking about the students abroad this semester, and how they may, soon, experience the exact same things. So I sought out to find some of the best answers from other students who have gone abroad. For starters, here is a bit of what they said: 

• 65% of respondents claimed their readjustment process was moderately challenging to difficult and overwhelming, whereas 35% stated their transition was smooth and seamless. So, if you’re studying abroad now, there’s a pretty good chance that you’ll be totally fine. 

• People found themselves taking refuge in a myriad of support systems: some relied on family and friends, some relied on long-distance support from friends abroad, some used substances, and one respondent even said they were only helped by “me, myself and I”. 

• Respondents studied abroad between one semester and 10 years ago, and of all of the responses, 40% stated that they haven’t fully recovered from their experiences abroad. The others fell in a range from no time at all to 6-12 months. 

This data may look a little grim, but oddly, not a single respondent regretted any level of their experience abroad. Like everyone else, despite the many challenges I have faced, I wouldn't change my experience for the world. Even if I returned home feeling in ruins, the necessity of picking up the pieces forced me to focus on the relationships that really mattered and double down on figuring out what was actually important for me. I recognize now that studying abroad (not just for me, but also for my peers) is a blooming season in which we reap the benefits of incredibly rich memories and unforgettable, invaluable life experiences, and afterwards comes time to rest, recover, and to sow seeds for the next adventure. To those of you who might be thinking of going abroad, do it. To my friends I’ve been blessed to make here in Colorado and abroad, you make my life so much sweeter. And to Denver International Airport, let’s hope we see each other soon.

Seoul Street Eats: The Bitesize Guide

By Sandra Vo, Editing Manager

In a city as rich in culture as Seoul, the capital of South Korea, good food might be right outside your door (literally). Seoul’s streets are bustling with a variety of street food vendors, whipping up everything from toasted marshmallow ice cream to spicy chicken feet. While you might need a big gulp of Pepto Bismol the next day, it’s definitely worth the risk. This is a bitesize guide to some of the best street foods that Seoul has to offer.

1. Sotteok Sotteok (소떡 쏘떡)

Photo by Sandra Vo.

Like most modernized foods in Korea, sotteok is a combination between two words: sausage (소시지) and rice cake (떡). Its full name sotteok sotteok doubles as a visual description of the food, which is alternating sausage and rice cake. The entire skewer is covered in a Korean sweet chili sauce, consisting of gochujang (a spicy paste used in Korean cooking, made from red chili, peppers, fermented soybeans, rice, and salt), sugar, and other spices according to the vendor’s fancy. Both the chewy rice cake and the firm sausage makes for a textured meal with the benefit of being tasty.

2. Beef Skewers

Photo by Sandra Vo.

Beef is notoriously pricey in South Korea, but the vendors selling these beef skewers are still able to deliver delicious skewers to satisfy any carnivorous cravings. Although pricier than some street food (sitting at 10,000 won which is about 7.50 USD), this is worth the expense. This particular beef skewer was grilled and then roasted using a butane torch, creating a mouth-water caramelization on the surface of the beef. Be careful eating this one while sitting down, the beef is so juicy that it tends to drip down the skewer and onto unsuspecting laps.

3. Egg Bread (계란빵)

Photo by Sandra Vo.

Korean egg bread (romanized as gyeran-ppang), is nothing less than as advertised. Quite literally a miniature loaf of bed with an egg embedded in the middle, egg bread is popular among street vendors as a quick, warm bite. The subtly sweet taste of the bread paired with the ever-so-slightly gooey egg in the center makes for a popular, cheap snack.

4. Tanghulu (탕후루)

Photo by Sandra Vo.

Although tanghulu, a candied fruit snack, is a traditionally Chinese dessert, it’s taken off in Korea as an extremely trendy and popular snack. Even just around Hongdae, there’s a tanghulu store almost every single block. Street vendors also have their stake in the business, serving up tanghulu in almost every market you can find. Tanghulu is a line of fruit covered in a sugary shell, which makes for a sweet yet tangy mouthful. It’s perfect for those craving dessert that you can eat on the go.

5. Hotteok (호떡)

Photo by Sandra Vo.

People with nut allergens, beware! People without nut allergens, prepare! A pancake with a nut and brown sugar filling, hotteok is just the right amount of sweet and chewy. Hotteok is also a classic Korean street food, especially in the winter time since the warm pancake can also serve as a hand warmer. Some vendors also offer nutella or more savory fillings.

6. Cheesy Lobster Tails

Photo by Sandra Vo.

While almost exclusively available in the Myeongdong (a neighborhood in the Jung District of Seoul, South Korea) night market, these vendors always have a crowd and for good reason. It’s definitely a show to watch how these lobster tails are roasted on the grill and topped with a golden brown layer of cheese. For 20,000 won or 14.80 USD, you can get an entire lobster tail that’s both moist and flavorful.

Timeless or Touristy?: What to do (and What to Skip) on a Trip to London

By Madelynn Loring, Staff Writer

London has been on my list for quite some time as a travel destination. I briefly visited London as a child during a 24-hour layover, but that only gave me a small sample of what this historic and truly international city has to offer. Thus, I decided to catch a cheap flight out for a long weekend. 

View of Big Ben and the London Eye

As always, a few disclaimers before I dive into it. Firstly, London is another expensive one. It certainly isn’t as bad as Switzerland, but given the exchange rate between pounds and USD (roughly 1.3 USD to one pound) it's worth mentioning that things will be a little bit pricier than you might be expecting. Additionally, many of the most popular tourist attractions are quite expensive compared to other locations in Europe, but more about that later. 

Also, invest in a rain jacket before you go; the weather is miserable (no offense to the Brits) and with strong winds common in the city, an umbrella won’t cut it. In fact, if you take an umbrella, chances are you’ll leave without it, because the wind will have torn it to shreds and left you soaked in the rain. Learn from my mistakes. 

Iconic Buildings

Tower Bridge London

Some of the most common sight-seeing designations in London are the iconic buildings, such as the Buckingham Palace. London is a fascinating city from an architectural standpoint because they have incredibly well-maintained historical buildings, such as Tower Bridge, alongside some of the most iconic contemporary buildings, like the Shard. These buildings are absolutely worth seeing from the outside. If you tube to central London, most of them are within a walking distance of each other. There are plenty of companies that can offer you a more in-depth background on these buildings through a walking tour, and it is even possible to visit the interior of most of these buildings. But, as I mentioned earlier, this is where a trip to London can start to get incredibly expensive. Given that I had been traveling Europe for about seven months at this point, I decided to pass on the in-depth tours of these buildings, because I don’t love the way my bank account is looking and also because most of these buildings have quite an industrial feel that I am not particularly enthralled by.

The one exception to this, however, is the Royal Opera House. As a theater buff, I was hoping to be able to catch a show here, but unfortunately I came at a poor time when the operas were sold out and they were in between ballets. So, I decided to do the next best thing, and bought a ticket for the behind-the-scenes tour of the Opera House. As someone who has done theater before, this tour was worth every penny (or pence.) You get an in-depth view of the costume shops, ballet studios, and, if you're lucky, certain rehearsal sessions of the Royal Opera Company. It is a rather technical and information heavy tour, so I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are particularly interested in the performing arts and its history. However, even if you don’t end up opting for a tour, several areas of the Royal Opera House are open to the public without a ticket, so it may be worth it to just do a brief visit of the public exhibitions. 

Museums

Great Britain is one of the best places to visit in Europe in terms of museums. Of course, there is a lot to unpack in terms of colonization and the ethics of some of the artifacts stored in British museums. However, that doesn’t mean that you should cross these museums off your list. The majority of museums in London are completely free to visit, though you might need to make a reservation to be sure you can make it in without wasting half your day in a line, and there is plenty to explore beyond the certain controversial exhibits London hosts. 

The main entrance of the British Museum

Let’s start off with the biggest (and also at times the most controversial) museum in the UK, the British Museum. It is an interesting experience to say the least because very little of what is exhibited is actually British. In fact, I would say that the most British thing about this museum is the swathes of uniformed British school children who descend upon each exhibit in groups for field trips every day of the week. Of course, there are some remarkable things to see, including statues from the Pantheon, the Rosetta Stone, and various jewelry hoards from around the British Isles. However, it is one of the most touristy museums available to visit in London, and you have to determine for yourself if it is worth it. 

The Cast Collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum

The next museum I visited was the Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum, located west of the British Museum. This museum was definitely more to my liking than the British Museum. It had a wide array of exhibits, but was less overwhelmed by sightseers and field trip bound children. The coolest part of this museum, in my opinion, was the Cast Courts. 

The Cast Courts opened in 1873 and are a section of the museum dedicated not to original works of sculpture, but copies. At its conception, it acted similar to the internet: bringing together different monumental pieces of art work to be viewed all in one place. Even now, it serves as a way to view some incredible works from around the world, without having to travel the world (or steal from it). The V&A Museum also has some interesting collections surrounding more daily life, including object art and British fashion.  

The World's First Steam Locomotive Engine at the Science Museum

The final museum I visited was the Science Museum. This is definitely a family museum, and a more local stop than touristy. The Science Museum was my favorite of this trip, as it appealed to my two truest loves: trains and old stuff. This museum exhibits the world’s oldest train steam engine, as well as several other models and examples of old steam technology. They also have a highly impressive space section featuring to-scale models of history-making space technology, including Apollo 11 and the Hubble Space Telescope. If you chose to visit this museum during the weekend, chances are you’ll be sharing your visit with a number of local families, but it won’t be anywhere near as overwhelming as the British Museum. 

Theater

Aside from the British Museum and Big Ben, one of the things that London is best known for is theater. Again, as a theater nerd, the London West End was another one of the big drives for me to go on this trip. With 39 theaters all playing different shows, you are sure to find something to appeal to any interest. They play everything from cult classics, such as Les Misérables and Phantom of the Opera (which I had the pleasure of seeing at Her Majesty’s Theater) to modern favorites, like Hamilton (appreciate the irony of this one) and Frozen, to new releases like The Great British Bake Off Musical. Yes, you heard me right, they created a musical based on everyone’s favorite comfort cooking show. I saw a Sunday matinee performance and needless to say it was a blast. It certainly wasn’t a game changer for musical theater, but it is a fun rom-com type show with catchy tunes and easy gags that is a pleasure to watch. 

If you are interested in catching any shows while you are in London, be sure to look into rush tickets. Each theater does them differently, but in essence, they are tickets sold either in singles or in pairs the day of the show, usually starting at 10 am local time, at a massive discount. This is how I got my tickets to  The Great British Bake Off Musical, and I ended up paying a quarter of the price for tickets about five rows from the stage. As a general starting point, I would recommend looking at the app called TodayTix. There you can see a wide array of theaters offering discounted and rush tickets for all your favorite shows. 

Another spot I visited in terms of theater was Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, in south eastern London. The theater itself is not the original, although you can visit a lovely sign in front of an apartment complex marking where the original used to be. However, the current Globe is a replica of where Shakespeare’s shows first played, including the open roof, standing pit, and bench seating. Unfortunately, I don’t have a great opinion of the theater itself. It is cool to see how theater was done 400 years ago, but I would much rather watch a show from modern theater seating than from a wooden bench. 

Set of The Tempest in Shakespeare's Globe Theatre

That being said, don’t pass up the opportunity to see a Shakespeare play at this theater. I caught a matinee performance of The Tempest and needless to say it would have made old William himself proud. Of course, if you do not like Shakespeare, don’t bother. Seeing a Shakespeare play performed in the Globe isn’t going to make you like it anymore if you already hated seeing it in a modern theater. However, for all the Shakespeare nerds out there, give it a go! Prepare yourself for sitting (or standing) in an exposed theater for a long period of time, but rest assured, the company will ensure you see a beautiful show.

Food

Finally, let’s talk food. The UK is the butt of many jokes about food, particularly in regards to seasoning. And while it’s true that you aren’t going to find any out of this world spice combinations in traditional British food (though be sure to stop at a curry restaurant), that doesn’t mean there’s nothing that Britain has to offer in the culinary world.

The first activity I would recommend for foodies is finding a place to have a traditional afternoon tea. Introduced in the 19th century by British nobility to stave off hunger pangs between the noon and evening meals, afternoon tea has become a hallmark of British culture. To discover these scrumptious snacks, I ended up at Tea and Tattle, a small tea room in the basement of a bookstore just opposite the British Museum. A traditional afternoon tea can be quite pricey (I paid 24 pounds for afternoon tea for One) but don’t let that deter you. It is certainly worth the experience, and actually not a bad value for the price. At Tea and Tattle, afternoon tea includes five different finger sandwiches (with vegetarian and allergen friendly option available), a scone with clotted cream and two types of jam, and two different desserts (I got a lemon drizzle cake and a carrot cake) accompanying a pot of tea of your choosing. The food was delicious, and a nice way to wrap up a morning at the British Museum, though be sure to call ahead for a free reservation if you are interested.   

The other place I cannot recommend enough is the Borough Market. Located in the east portion of central London, this food market is sure to have something to appeal to any tastes, from traditional English to contemporary bakes to delicious street food. Be sure to come prepared with both cash and card, as certain stands might only accept one or the other and be ready to face some pretty impressive crowds, especially in the afternoon. In this case, Borough Market is a popular stop not because it is touristy but because it is amazing. I got to try some amazing traditional hand pies, as well as some other British bakes and a delicious honeycomb salted caramel donut. If you are looking for a place to grab a more informal lunch, the Borough Market is the place to go!

Overall, London is full of iconic tourist sites, but don’t pass up the other, more local opportunities this city has to offer!

Timeless or Touristy?

Iconic Buildings? Worth seeing from the outside, but I can’t speak to touring them.

British Museum? Touristy with some cool collections and swathes of British school children.

Victoria and Albert Museum? Timeless with a surprisingly wide array of collections.

Science Museum? Timeless fun for the whole family (and also lots of train stuff!)

West End Musicals? Amazing shows in a timeless location. 

The Globe Theatre? The theater itself is touristy, but seeing Shakespeare is timeless. 

Afternoon tea? Timeless and tasty.

The Borough Market? Timeless for everyone’s tastes.

The Art of Protest: An American Perspective on the French Retirement Strikes

The whole debacle started with a proposal by French left-wing president Emmanuel Macron to raise the age required to receive government retirement pension from 62 to 64. Given that you need to be 67 to receive your full social security pension in the United States, I was shocked to hear that this was even an issue. Now I am by no means a French legal expert, so I cannot speak much in depth of the debate on this issue. However, while retirement at 62 seems fanciful to me, I too would be furious if I had been promised it and then the president (who is quite wealthy) proposed taking it from me. 

This was the general reaction of the French public, and they expressed their anger in the way that they knew best: strikes. However, French strikes are not quite the same as those seen in America. They are typically the first step of a bargaining process, rather than a last resort. Whereas American unions tend to hold out on declaring a strike in hopes that an agreement will be reached, the French public start with strikes, almost as a reminder to the government or powerful company that they are the ones who truly hold the power, often before negotiations are made. Thus, the moment the retirement reform was proposed, the French had taken to the streets in protest in Paris. This mass public movement overtook the entirety of France, and by January 19, a national strike was declared. Not a single tram was running in the city of Montpellier where I live. Few buses were running and most businesses were closed. 

Another difference between French and American strikes that typically occur, is that French strikes have a declared end date. Whatever unions involved will declare a strike for a 24 or 72-hour period, and then business will resume as normal. This was the case at the beginning of the strikes. After a total shutdown on Thursday, everything was back up and running on Friday. However, the reason most strikes in France last a brief predetermined time is because they remind those in power of their place (in service of the people) and lead to successful bargaining and resolution. However, in this case, the French government did not stand down. Thus, another strike was announced the following week, and then the next, but the French government did not stand down, so the protests intensified.

Trash build-up on the streets of Marseille due to the ongoing strikes by workers in the public sector.

Needless to say, the French protest harder than Americans. During national rail strikes, they set up barbeques on the railroad and threw parties. They gathered en masse in every major city center and in front of prefecture buildings from when the sun rose to when it set. They faced riot police with no fear, and in many cases sent them running with nothing more than their voices. Many unions took it even further, with French electricity unions cutting power to Macron’s official residence in Paris, along with several other buildings associated with pro-reform politicians. 

Facing immense public scrutiny and a knife-edge vote to pass the retirement reform, on March 16, President Macron decided to push through the reform using Article 49.3 of the French constitution. In essence, this is used in the same manner as an executive order in the United States. It allows the current government to create and enforce a piece of legislation without a vote by the Assemble General, the voting legislative body of the French government. 

I figured, given my experience with protests in the United States, that this move by Macron, no matter how objectionable, would be the end of the whole thing.  Yet, in contrast to American protests, French strikes don’t seem to lose momentum as they go on. Rather, it seems that resistance to and delay of change only adds fuel to the fire. The first strikes over the retirement reform were in the last days of January. They are still going strong as we enter into April, despite the reforms being pushed through into law.

Blockade of one of the building on the main campus of Université Paul-Valéry in Montpellier, France.

Garbage is piling up on the streets as waste collectors remain on strike. About ¼ of the normal volume of trains and other forms of public transit are running and new flight cancellations are announced daily. Demonstrations are ongoing, with protesters starting bonfires, burning representations of Article 49.3, and blockading government buildings. My host university, Paul-Valéry, had previously been blockaded on several separate instances, with students and other protesters arriving on campus in the early hours of the morning to block entrances with chairs, desks, and construction materials. However, ever since Macron’s passage of the reform via Article 49.3, the campus has been constantly blockaded. There have been several general assembly votes of students, faculty, and administration of the school to try to end the blockade, but in each case, the members of the university have voted to allow the protest to continue. 

At the moment, the situation in France continues to hang in the balance. Ongoing strikes and protests are bringing the country to a standstill, yet the government continues forward with the reforms, planning to have them in place by the end of this year. How this conflict will resolve remains unknown. As a pessimistic American, it seemed unlikely to me from the start that the unions and protests would even be able to hold out for long, much less create a real change against the government’s plans. However, I was wrong with my first assumption, so who is to say that I won’t be wrong with my second? After all, the demonstrations have already created such tension that Macron felt he had to push the reform through non-democratic methods, so it is clear that the government is feeling the pressure of the people. The conflict is a fire that is impossible to predict, so we will simply have to wait and see whether it fizzles out or consumes its opposition.  

Timeless or Touristy?: What to do (and What to Skip) on a Winter Trip to Switzerland

By Madelynn Loring, Staff Writer

Switzerland is said to have invented the concept of winter tourism. It is the place to go in Europe for folks looking for a ski vacation or a cozy winter get-together. But there’s much to see beyond the slopes, which is what drew my father and me to this destination during my mid-semester break at the end of February.

Before I get into this article, let me make it abundantly clear that Switzerland is not a trip for everyone, especially in the winter. In the other places I’ve written about, there are things that could appeal to a huge genre of people. However, many of Switzerland’s largest tourist drives, such as the Matterhorn mountain, Aletsch glacier, and funicular railways have limited access during the winter or are closed entirely. That being said, it is the go-to in terms of winter sports getaways in Europe and also boasts a number of winter-friendly tourist attractions including museums, castles, and historic rail lines. If you are a ski buff, or if you are like me and my father (read: obsessed with trains, boats, and ruins), Switzerland is definitely the place for you, though there may be some benefit to going in the spring or summer if you are a part of the latter group. 

One more quick disclaimer before we dive into it: be aware that Switzerland is one of the most expensive places to travel in Europe, as it is not a part of the EU, and thus is in a much different place economically than member countries. Be sure you look into this before you go on a trip and make sure you budget accordingly because it’s one thing to hear about it and another thing entirely when the cheapest meal you can find is a 16 CHF burger (roughly $17). 

With that out of the way, let’s get into the trip. My father and I spent a week traveling throughout Switzerland, visiting the cities of Montreux, Gruyère, Interlaken/Brig, Chur, St. Moritz, and Geneva. While it was initially in our plans to visit the Matterhorn in Zermatt as well as the Aletsch glacier, we, unfortunately, ran afoul in terms of weather, making neither of these locations worth the trip in terms of both visibility and activity closures.

Montreux

We started off in Montreux, a city on the eastern end of Lake Geneva. Arguably this city's biggest claim to fame is that Freddie Mercury resided there frequently at his holiday home on the shore. There is a statue in tribute to him facing the lake, available for photo ops, and it is actually possible to rent his vacation home as a short-term rental. However, just as Freddie Mercury discovered during his vacations, Montreux is not a very bustling city. There are certainly things to do in terms of tourist attractions, but it is a very quiet town, especially during the winter.  

Aside from the tribute statue, the other main tourist grab is the Chateau Chillon, about a 20-minute bus ride from the central train station. I have seen a large number of castles and palaces in my time in Europe, and there is a sense after you see enough castles that they all start to look the same. This doesn’t mean however that you should cross Chateau Chillon off your list. It is definitely more of a classic medieval defense castle than a luxurious palace, like Versailles. It is actually situated on the lake itself, a tactic dating back to its original purpose as a place of defense, though it never saw any conflict or invasions. The biggest thing that stands out about this castle compared to other castles I have seen thus far in Europe is the cavernous cellars, store rooms, and dungeon under the ground floor. There is plenty to explore in the Chateau Chillon, from decorative period furniture to modern art exhibitions scattered throughout. 

Gruyère

Cheese cave at the Maison de Gruyère cheese factory

While we spent our first two nights in Montreux, we ended up taking a day trip to the town of Gruyère. And yes, before you ask, it is Gruyere, like the cheese, as this is the birthplace of Gruyere cheese. This is a must-see stop for foodies, where you can visit both the Maison de Gruyere (literally the home of gruyere cheese) as well as one of the many chocolate factories in Switzerland. While we didn’t have time to visit the latter, the Maison de Gruyere did not disappoint. An entry ticket includes an audio guide, a sampling tray of aged gruyere cheese, and a walk through their mini museum, including a view of the factory floor where you can watch the cheesemakers work. It is certainly a touristy spot, but it is very cool nonetheless.

Château de Gruyère

Our other stop in Gruyere was the Château de Gruyère. This castle looked like a fairytale, but it actually serves as more of a history lesson about Gruyere and Switzerland as a whole. Like other castles available to visit, it has its fair share of displays of medieval decorative art and weaponry. However, sitting atop one of the highest geographic points of Gruyere, it also boasts an impressive view and is a great place for pictures. It certainly isn’t the most remarkable castle I have visited in my time in Europe but is certainly one of the most notable in Switzerland. 

Interlaken

Unspunnen Castle Ruins

The next city we stayed in was Interlaken. The city itself is not super impressive; it has similar vibes to Estes Park during the winter, is eerily quiet, and does not have much to do. However, it did serve as a great jumping-off point for hikes and other day trips. Our first outing of this sort was to the Unspunnen Castle ruins, about a 30-minute walk from central Interlaken. This castle ruins is definitely more “ruins” than it is “castle,” but that makes it an interesting stop in between the other highly polished and restored castles in Europe. The ruins are mostly untouched by restorers, except for the occasional guardrail or grate to prevent falls when folks climb on it. And that is just what you can go there to do. It is a fun place to explore and hang around, though it won’t take more than an hour before you’ve had your fill. Additionally, if you're looking for more of a trip that emphasizes local attractions, this is a great place for you. This is a local monument, free to visit, and just outside of a small town, so it’s a nice place to spend some downtime if you’re in the area.

The other trip we took from Interlaken was a hike to Giessbachfälle, a large mountainous waterfall. The hike from the trailhead takes about an hour and takes you around and even behind the waterfall for a nearly 360° view of this natural marvel. The trail also passes by the picturesque Grand Hotel Giessbach and the Giessbach funicular, the oldest functional cable railway in Switzerland. These are closed during the slow winter season, but it is worth the hike just to admire these things from the outside. 

The one thing to note is that you should be sure to check the bus schedule. There are buses running from nearby towns Brig and Interlaken that take you almost directly to the trailhead, but they run in clumps, many at the beginning and end of the day, but very few during the middle. We didn’t think to look and ended up hiking about 7 km down the mountain because the next bus wouldn’t be arriving for 2 hours. While the transit situation was unfortunate, the remarkable view made the extra steps worth it. 

Chur

View from the Chur cable car

Next, we stopped in Chur. This is the oldest city in Switzerland, over 2000 years old, and currently holds the award in my book for the weirdest vibes in Europe. That isn’t to say that it wasn’t a fun place to poke around, but it was the strangest blend of buildings I have seen all in one place. There were old buildings made to look new, new buildings made to look old, old buildings that had been restored to their former glory, and others that had been left to decay in the weather. There were also areas that were very touristy with almost no cars, and then other areas where it was very clear that this was simply a town where people lived and worked.

Clock tower in Chur

Chur has plenty of beautiful historic buildings, including a clock tower and a large church. However, if you are looking to get into a funicular or something similar during the winter season, Chur is going to be your best option. At the edge of Chur Altstadt, there is a cable car that runs year-round up to the peak of Brambrüesch mountain, where you can find ski slopes, sledging runs, mountain biking trails (though they may be closed during the winter due to mud), and a gorgeous viewpoint. The cable car ride itself takes about 15 minutes in total, with a switch from a large cable car to a small ski-type gondola halfway up. It is somewhat expensive, as is everything in Switzerland, but it is much cheaper than other similar cable cars, such as Top of Europe, and considerably less crowded. 

St. Moritz

The next place we spent the night was St. Moritz. In terms of sightseeing, St. Moritz doesn’t have much to offer, but if you are looking for a winter sports getaway, this is the place to go. It’s a resort town, surrounded by various slopes and sledging runs. They also have what is, in my opinion, one of the nicest hostels in Europe. The St. Moritz Youth Hostel (which is open to everyone regardless of age) is going to be the best bang for your buck in terms of accommodations. They also offer complimentary breakfast and a relatively cheap dinner buffet that is comparable to some of the best food you will find in restaurants.

Interior of the Glacier Express

But back to St. Moritz. As I have mentioned before, my father and I are more train people than ski people, so why St. Moritz? The answer is the Glacier Express. The Glacier Express is a panoramic view train that traverses some of the most picturesque rail lines in the Swiss Alps, including the Rhaetian Railway UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is without a doubt one of the most touristy activities available in Switzerland, but also one of the coolest, especially during the winter. The Glacier Express runs from St. Moritz all the way to Zermatt, with a total travel time from one end to the other of about 8 hours. It certainly is not the fastest nor the cheapest way to make this journey, but it is certainly the most picturesque. 

One of the many gorgeous alpine views from the Glacier Express

The first leg of the journey traverses the Rhaetian Railway, which features dozens of arches, tunnels, viaducts, and bridges as it crosses through the Bernina Valley. You’ll get a better view of the bridges if you travel from Chur to St. Moritz, instead of the other way around (believe me, we did both - we are that obsessed with trains) but it is cool either way. Then you climb into the Alps for some unbelievable views of the highest snow-capped peaks in Europe. There is, of course, food and drink available for purchase on board. However, because it is a tourist activity, the already elevated prices in Switzerland will be even higher. The food itself is not bad, but it isn’t really worth the price. You are allowed to bring your own picnic, so in hindsight, I would opt to do that and simply buy a nice warm drink instead. 

Geneva

The Magnin Relief Mode in the Maison Tavel, Geneva

We finished our trip in Geneva, right on the western border with France. It is home to the headquarters of the United Nations. There is plenty to explore in that realm, but if global politics isn’t exactly your vibe, there are a number of other museums and historic locations to discover. The first we visited was Maison Tavel, an urban history museum built into a medieval building in Old Geneva. 

This museum takes the cake as the most Dad-Friendly museum in Switzerland. For middle-aged men, they have it all: old armor and weaponry, antique furniture and metalware, and, best of all, city models. The Maison Tavel is home to the Magnin Relief Model, a city model made out of zinc and other earthen materials in the 1900s that represents 19th-century Geneva, right before it broke through its medieval boundaries and grew into the international metropolis that it is today. This huge model is sure to impress.

The next visit we did wasn’t to a museum, but a cathedral. Similarly to castles in Europe, once you see a lot of cathedrals, they all start to look pretty similar. Regardless, if you are in Geneva, Saint Pierre Cathedral should be a stop. Access into the main atrium is free and features an extensive vaulted ceiling as well as a massive church organ. The most impressive parts of this cathedral, however, cost 10 CHF to access, and those are the towers. 

View of old town Geneva from the St. Pierre Cathedral towers

A visit to the towers is not for the faint of heart, given that they are only accessible by incredibly narrow spiral staircases. They are so narrow, in fact, that it is impossible to pass someone else on them, so times are laid out in which you are allowed to walk up, and others when you are allowed to walk down, alternating roughly every five minutes. It's essentially a historic Stairmaster, so be sure you feel physically up to the challenge before you buy your ticket. The view makes up for the workout though. This is the best way to get a view of old town Geneva, as well as a look at some 500-year-old church bells, and a weathered bronze spire, something I haven’t seen on any other church in Europe thus far. 

Our next stop was Patek Philippe Museum. This museum features the history of watches, from their conception to the modern Patek Philippe luxury collections. In keeping with its theme, there are also some examples of various automatons (which were popular in the 19th century) as well as pieces of watch-making tools and machinery from every century. This museum is free with the Swiss Museum Pass, but otherwise, it, like everything in Switzerland, is a little pricey (are you sensing a trend?). However, this is another great museum for dads who claim they don’t like museums, as well as for history buffs, decorative arts fans, and designer girlies alike. We, unfortunately, cut ourselves short on time to catch our final activity so we didn’t get to explore the museum fully, but if you fall into the aforementioned category be sure to give yourself a couple of hours to discover all that this museum has to offer.  

Belle Époque Style Paddle Boat

Our final activity of the Switzerland trip was a brief tour on La Italie, a refurbished paddle boat from the Belle Époque. The tour around lake Geneva only lasted 50 minutes, but the experience of being on a 19th-century steamship was well worth it. There is a plethora of outdoor seating, but also plenty of great views to be had from the inside as well. However, one of the coolest parts is the viewing windows that look onto the paddles themselves. On most trips, they offer concessions on board for a fee, but if you arrive early you can grab a bite to-go from the crepe stand just off the dock. The company that operates the tours also operates various other tours and fondue cruises during the on-season, if you happen to visit during the summer. Regardless, getting aboard such a timeless ship even for just a brief trip was one of the highlights of my time. 

In summary, Switzerland is a must-see, regardless of the season. However, this is one you are going to want to plan in advance, as it can be overwhelming and disappointing to try to fill your time if you don’t. Furthermore, be sure you're prepared for the Swiss prices; they’re unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere in Europe but can be absolutely worth it if you play your cards right. 

Timeless or Touristy?

Château Chillon? Timeless castle with impressive views and underground chambers.

Maison de Gruyère? Touristy stop for lactose lovers.

Château Gruyère? Timeless history lesson, but not the coolest castle you can see in Europe.

Unspunnen Castle Ruins? Timeless, where the locals go to chill. 

Giessbachfälle? Timeless hike, just be sure to check the bus schedule.

Chur? Timeless historic city with some of the strangest vibes in Switzerland.

Chur cable car to Brambrüesch? Touristy activity with unforgettable views.

Glacier Express? Touristy, but the views on the Rhaetian Railway and throughout the trip are not to be missed. 

Maison Tavel? Timeless, free museum, and very dad-friendly.

Patek Phillipe Museum? Touristy museum for the designer girlies and mechanics-obsessed fathers in your life. 

Saint Pierre Cathedral? Touristy but with an awesome view of Geneva if you’re willing to brave the stairs. 

Belle Epoque Paddle Steamers? Touristy yet so unbelievably cool (both in the colloquial and the literal sense. Be sure to dress warmly.)

Timeless or Touristy?: What to do (and What to Skip) on a Trip to Paris

By Madelynn Loring, Staff Writer

Paris is simply the place to go in France for Americans. In fact, when I first announced that I was studying abroad, the first thing everyone said was, “In Paris?” I definitely disappointed folks when I said that no, I was going to a smaller city in southern France, unheard of by Americans, called Montpellier. Regardless, I have been so fortunate as to have been able to catch a couple trains to Paris for weekend trips, so I figured I would share my experience with certain popular attractions, and offer my insight on whether they’re worth it, or too touristy.

Eiffel Tower

So, let's start with the obvious, the Eiffel Tower. You can’t go to Paris and not go see it. At least, that's what most folks say, and I would agree to a certain extent. Especially if you have been studying French for a while, seeing the Eiffel Tower is a huge moment, and I don’t want to discredit that. However, it does get old pretty quick. 

Photo by Madelynn Loring

It is definitely worth it to at least go to the park in front of the base where you can get a good view, and take some nice pictures. After all, how are you going to show the internet that you were in France if you don’t have a picture with the Eiffel Tower??? If you do want to go to the top, you have got two options. Either book your tickets online 60 days in advance (yes, they do sell out that fast, even in the off season) or wait in line onsite. I have always chosen the latter option. If you choose to do the same, ensure that you go right as it opens. There will still be a line, but the wait shouldn't be longer than 30 minutes. 

Also, (and this is just a general statement for all of France) be cautious of what they call “aggressive solicitors.” These are going to be the folks standing outside of all of the major tourist attractions selling Eiffel tower keychains, berets, and the like. They are not necessarily a scam, or a way to pickpocket you, but they can be quite uncomfortable and difficult to escape, so just be aware. 

Speaking of things to be cautious of, the one other common thing you might experience in France is folks approaching you with clipboards asking for a signature. At least, from the American perspective, that is what it seems like is happening. What it actually is is people asking for donations for whatever cause they represent. I am not sure if these are legitimate, or scams, but it is very easy to sign your name on a paper thinking it’ll get them to leave you alone, and then get asked for every bill and coin in your wallet. Similar to the “aggressive solicitors,” it is very difficult to remove yourself from the interaction once you have engaged, so a simple “no” if they try to ask you for a donation is the simplest option. 

Museums

Moving on from Paris’s most touristy experiences to the second most, here's a little dive into some of Paris’s museums. This is not a comprehensive view by any stretch of the imagination. Paris is a lot bigger than many expect, and there is practically a new museum every block. It is also worth noting that not all of these attractions are necessarily museums by name, but they have the same general purpose of going through and looking at neat stuff. 

The Lourve Photo by Madelynn Loring

So without further ado, let's start with the creme de la creme of Paris museums: The Louvre. Everyone knows this one. You know, the one with the glass pyramids where Mona Lisa lives? That one. The Louvre is the second most popular tourist attraction in Paris, but don’t let that make you cross it off your list as overrated. 

The Louvre is absolutely massive. I have visited for a full day three times in the past four months, and I still feel I have barely scratched the surface of what the Louvre collections have to offer. For this reason, the Louvre is really a one-size-fits-all museum. If you’re an art buff, you’re set. Ancient egypt? There’s practically a whole floor dedicated to that. More into decorative arts? Stop by the recreation of Napoleon's apartment, complete with car-sized chandelier. 

They have exhibitions of things from all over the world, from prehistory to present day, so if the Mona Lisa doesn’t really tickle your fancy, rest assured you’ll find something that does. And a little note on the Mona Lisa: she might be famous, but she ain’t worth it. It’s going to take you about 20-30 minutes to make your way through the crowd, just for a picture you aren’t going to look at again. Believe me, I’ve done it.

Sculpture section of Musee d’Orsay

Photo by Madelynn Loring

Another popular art museum in Paris is the Musee d’Orsay. Built into an old train station, this museum hosts one of the most impressive collections of sculptures and impressionist art in the world. They have works by Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir. This is also home to the famous Little Dancer sculpture and Dancer on Stage (The Star) by renowned artist Edgar Degas. 

Or, if paintings are not really your thing, you can walk through the main hall, which hosts sculptures from Greek Antiquity to contemporary works by artists such as Kehinde Wiley, who did President Barack Obama’s last presidential portrait. Also, Musee d’Orsay is much less overwhelming than the Louvre, both in terms of size and business. This makes it a great stop for folks who want a taste of a wide array of art, but aren’t willing to face the chaotic labyrinth that can be the Louvre. 

Entrance to Petit Palais Photo by Madelynn Loring

If you’re looking to live a little more like the locals, or you want a taste of Parisian art museums, but not so much that you want to spend money on an entry ticket, I strongly recommend the Petit Palais. Located on the main road of Paris, the Petit Palais (as suggested by its name) is a small art museum built into a small offshoot of the Grand Palais, built for the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900. 

This museum has a number of small collections, including traditional European paintings, decorative arts, and prehistoric artifacts. The ceilings are also painted with religious scenes, much like those in Italian cathedrals, but in a more contemporary style. The Petit Palais’s biggest draw, however, is that it is entirely free to enter, with no reservation or ticket required, making it the perfect stop for a traveler on a budget. 

Chapel inside Palace of Versaille

Photo by Madelynn Loring

Now that we’ve covered some popular traditional art museums, let’s dive into some of the less conventional museums Paris has to offer. While it isn’t exactly in Paris proper, I couldn’t write about Paris without mentioning the Palace of Versaille. Just a short train ride from central Paris, Versaille is a must see. A true testament to Grande Epoque opulence, the Palace of Versaille was initially built by order of Louis XIV, the sun king of France. It was occupied by Louis XVI and his wife, Marie Antoinette, when it was stormed during the French Revolution in 1789. It's certainly a tourist destination, but the rich history and decorative architecture throughout the entire property makes it a great day trip. However, make sure you plan for inclement weather; it is a massive estate, and you’ll be walking a lot, so be sure to pack an umbrella and good, water-proof walking shoes. 

Concert hall of the Opera Garnier

Photo by Madelynn Loring

If you want more of the glamor and elegance of Versaille (or you’re just a massive theater nerd like myself), stop by the Opera Garnier. The opulence of this opera house speaks for itself. However, its largest claim to fame, at least in modern times, is that this is the very opera house that inspired Gaston Laroux’s book La Fantôme de l'Opéra and, later on, Andrew Lloyd Weber’s timeless musical adaptation, The Phantom of the Opera. For this reason, it’s a must see for lovers of the performing arts. There is even a replica of the original chandelier, which fell during a performance, inspiring the now-infamous novel and musical, hanging in the house (although with much better engineering I am sure). Even if you do not have an opportunity to catch a show at the opera Garnier, it is worth it to just stop in to admire the gorgeous architecture and history this building has to offer. 

One of the many piles of bones in the Paris Catacombs Photo by Madelynn Loring

The last museum-type attraction I’ll be discussing is the Paris Catacombs. They are undoubtedly an unconventional museum experience, but still incredibly cool. However, this might be one to skip if you are easily spooked, or even remotely claustrophobic. The catacombs are a series of tunnels running under Paris that date back to the 14th century, where they were initially quarries. However, in the late 1700s, after a pauper’s graves became overcrowded, causing rampant illness, city officials decided to again make use of the tunnel system that had since been abandoned. Over six million skeletons are now stored in the Paris Catacombs. 

You can do a self-directed tour through the tunnels to see them that will take roughly an hour. Like I said, it’s an unconventional stop. It is certainly a tourist attraction, but it is nowhere near as crowded as the more traditional monuments. The catacombs are worth the stop for a history buff, or someone with a curiosity for the macabre, but might leave children (and certain adults) having nightmares for years to come, so choose wisely. 

Arc de Triomphe

Photo by Madelynn Loring

Moving away from museums, let’s touch on another popular attraction, the Arc de Triomphe on the Champs Elysée. I understand that, as an American, a huge cool arch in the center of the city is a massive draw. However, it becomes considerably less impressive when you realize that there are several other “Arc de Triomphes” in Paris, and that practically any sizable city in France will have their own as well. They all date back to la grande époque, when Louis XIV felt compelled to build monuments all over the country to commemorate various military or political victories (a trend dating back to the Romans). 

The Arc de Triomphe does dwarf all of the others, but, like the Eiffel towers, it’s more of a one and done type of thing. It is also relatively high risk, both in terms of tourist-targeted scams/theft, and in terms of not wanting to get run over by a French taxi. Whether or not that risk is worth being able to look at and take a picture with it is up to you.

Moulin Rouge

Photo by Madelynn Loring

If you’re looking for a trip more suited to adult tastes, Paris is home to the birthplace of burlesque, The Moulin Rouge. No one actually goes to the Moulin Rouge for their day-to-day burlesque anymore; the tickets are far too expensive, and the show, while it is certainly adults only, is definitely suited more to a dinner theater (which the Moulin Rouge has become) than a burlesque club. Nonetheless, I would recommend it for the spectacle. 

The costuming is unbelievably glamorous, the music is well performed and compelling (even if you don’t speak french), and there’s a part of the show for everyone. From Vegas-style burlesque dances, to Broadway love stories, to circus acts, to the traditional French can-can, the Moulin Rouge offers a night you can’t miss, even though it is now a tourist attraction more than anything else. I would recommend getting the dinner tickets, if that is in your budget, but at the very least I would recommend a splurge on the champagne tickets. For an extra 12 Euro per ticket, you are given half a bottle of champagne, and it isn’t the cheap stuff either. 

Disney

Sleeping Beauty’s castle Photo by Madelynn Loring

Finally, let’s get back to the child-friendly, and talk Disney. Given that we have two Disneys in the US, this doesn’t tend to be a huge driving force in going to Paris for most Americans. However, I did end up there because I have a friend who is a Disney Adult, and tickets were actually quite cheap during the off-season. 

My review? It’s a Disney theme park. It’s going to have pretty much what you would expect in terms of overpriced carnival food, long waits, and plenty of crying children. Disney Paris does host some unique attractions, most notably the Sleeping Beauty Castle (complete with animatronic Maleficent dragon), a Ratatouille themed ride and restaurant, and the Avengers Campus. The latter is the one reason I would recommend Disney Paris if you are a Disney or Marvel person. 

They have a new Marvel Hotel, and the avenger campus is chock full of recreations from the movies, including the Queen Jet and the Hulk Buster. There are character meet-and-greets with Captain Marvel, Iron Man, and more, if that’s your thing. They also have some unique marvel-themed restaurants including a Pym’s Kitchen, an all-you-can-eat buffet with both tiny and incredibly oversized foods (because who doesn’t want to eat a burger the size of a car tire before going on the Tower of Terror?). It is without a doubt one of the most touristy locations in Paris, but it can be really fun if that's what you’re looking for. 

Overall, Paris has something to offer for everyone, whether you are looking to embark on a classic sight-seeing trip or trying to take a deep dive into French culture. There are certain things that, while they might be overwhelmingly touristy, are worth the stop, and there are other things that you can do with skipping entirely without much detriment to your trip. After my numerous trips there, I have plenty of opinions on what those things are, but if you end up in Paris, you’ll have to decide for yourself what is worth the trip. 

Eiffel Tower? Touristy, but you can’t not go if it's your first time in France.

Louvre? Timeless, but skip the Mona Lisa. 

Musee d’Orsay? Timeless if you’re an impressionist art lover.

Petit Palais? Timeless. This is where the locals go. 

Versailles? Touristy, but worth the visit for the architecture and decorative arts. 

The Opera Garnier? Timeless, and worth it even if you can’t get tickets to a show.

The Paris Catacombs? Touristy. It’s pretty neat, but you'll have to decide for yourself if you want to be surrounded by that many skeletons.

The Moulin Rouge? Touristy, but still super fun.

L’Arc de Triomphe/Champs Elysée? Touristy, and high risk.

Disney Paris? Touristy. It’s Disney, but with a couple French twists.